How to Convert Manual Tricycle to Electric: A Proper 2025 Guide for the DIY Enthusiast

Converting your trusty trike to an electric ride is much easier and cheaper than you might think! With just £200-400 and a few basic tools, you can transform your pedal-powered tricycle into a zippy little e-trike that’ll have you cruising around town without breaking a sweat. Converting a manual tricycle to electric power typically involves installing a hub motor kit (usually on the front wheel), mounting a battery pack, and connecting a controller system.

Fancy giving your three-wheeler a bit of extra oomph? The most straightforward option is a front hub motor kit, which many riders find dead simple to install. These kits come with everything you need—motor, battery, controller, and wiring. The beauty of converting a trike rather than a standard bike is that you’ve got plenty of space for mounting that battery pack, making the whole process less of a faff.

You’ve got options too, love. Some cyclists prefer a 36V system for casual riding, while others go for beefier 48V or even 52V setups that give you more power for hills or carrying shopping. Most kits offer pedal assist, which means the motor gives you a helping hand while you’re pedaling—brilliant for when your legs are feeling a bit knackered but you still want some exercise. So pop the kettle on, gather your bits of kit, and let’s get that trike sorted!

Understanding the Basics of Electric Tricycles

Converting your trusty trike to electric power isn’t as complex as it might seem. With the right kit and a bit of know-how, you’ll be zooming about with an electric boost in no time.

The Anatomy of an Electric Trike

At the heart of every electric trike is the motor system. Most commonly, you’ll find a hub motor—a brilliant bit of kit that sits directly in one of your wheels (usually the front or rear). These motors range from 250W (perfectly adequate for flat terrain) to 750W or more (brilliant for hills and heavier riders).

The motor controller is your trike’s brain. This small box manages how much power flows from your battery to the motor based on your inputs. It’s what stops you from accidentally zooming off like a rocket!

Your battery is the fuel tank of the operation. Battery capacity is measured in voltage (V) and amp-hours (Ah). Most trike setups use 36V or 48V batteries, with 10-15Ah being quite common. A larger capacity means more range, but also more weight and cost.

Electric Conversion Kits

Conversion kits are the easiest way to transform your manual trike. These typically include:

A hub motor (front or rear wheel)
A motor controller
A battery pack and charger
A throttle or pedal assist sensor
Wiring and connections
Display unit (not always included)

Front wheel kits are often simpler to install—just swap your existing wheel for the motorised one. Rear wheel kits offer better traction but might require more faffing about with the gears.

Most kits offer pedal assist (where the motor helps as you pedal) or throttle control (power on demand), or both. Decent kits start around £200, with premium options reaching £500+.

Benefits of Converting to Electric

The most obvious perk is the power assist that helps you tackle hills without getting knackered. Many riders find they’re able to go further and enjoy cycling more when they’ve got that extra boost available.

Electric conversion can give your trike a max speed of 15-20 mph (the legal limit is 15.5mph for road-legal assistance in the UK). This makes commuting and shopping trips much more practical.

For those with mobility issues, an electric trike offers independence. The stability of three wheels combined with motorised assistance creates a safe, confidence-building transport option.

Battery life is surprisingly good on modern systems—many can manage 20-40 miles on a single charge, depending on how much you pedal yourself. And running costs? Just a few pence to recharge, compared to petrol prices that’ll make your eyes water!

Planning Your Electric Conversion

Before diving into your tricycle conversion project, you’ll need to sort out a few key details to ensure everything goes smoothly. A bit of planning now will save you loads of headaches later and help you create an electric trike that’s perfect for your needs.

Assessing Your Tricycle’s Suitability

First things first, love – not every trike is a good candidate for conversion. Have a proper look at your frame to make sure it’s sturdy enough to handle the extra weight and power. Steel frames tend to be your best bet, while aluminium might need reinforcement in some places.

Check your tricycle’s dropouts (where the wheels attach) to see if they’ll accommodate a hub motor. Most modern trikes use standard sizes, but some vintage models might be a bit fussy. The rear wheel area should have enough clearance for motor cables too.

Inspect your brakes carefully – they’ll need to work harder once you’ve gone electric. If you’ve only got basic rim brakes, you might want to upgrade to something with more stopping power. Remember, you’ll be going faster than before!

Choosing the Right Components

The hub motor is your main decision, and it’s a crucial one. For most trikes, a 250W to 500W rear hub motor offers a good balance of power without being over the top. If you’re planning longer journeys or have steep hills, consider going up to 750W.

Your battery capacity will determine your range. A decent 48V/5Ah battery (like mentioned in those search results) is a good starter option, giving you about 15-20 miles of assisted riding. For longer trips, look for 10Ah or more.

Don’t skimp on the motor controller – it’s the brain of your system! Make sure it’s compatible with your motor and battery voltage. Get one with regenerative braking if possible; it’ll help recharge your battery when you brake.

The throttle and display are your interface bits. A thumb throttle is easiest to use on a trike, and a simple display showing battery level and speed is all you really need to get started.

Budgeting for the Conversion

Converting your trike doesn’t have to break the bank. Based on those search results, you can get sorted for as little as £150-300 ($200-400) if you’re savvy about it. The motor kit will be your biggest expense – usually about £100-150 for a decent one.

Your shopping list:

Hub motor kit: £100-150
Battery pack: £80-200 (depending on capacity)
Controller: Often included with motor kit
Wiring and connectors: £15-30
Tools (if you don’t have them): £20-50

Where to save a few quid? Look for complete kits that include motor, controller and wiring all together. Sometimes buying used batteries from reputable sellers can cut costs, but be careful – battery quality matters!

Don’t forget to budget for potential upgrades like better brakes or reinforcement bits. Setting aside an extra £50 for unexpected expenses is always wise. Trust me on this one – there’s always something you didn’t plan for!

Electrical Components Overview

Converting your trike to electric power means getting familiar with a handful of key components that work together to create your new e-powered machine. Let’s break down the essentials before you splash the cash on parts that might not be right for your needs.

Selecting a Hub Motor

The hub motor is the beating heart of your electric conversion – it’s what gets you moving without all that pedalling faff. Most conversion kits come with either front or rear hub motors, but for trikes, rear hub motors are typically your best bet for stability and traction.

For a standard adult trike, look for motors in the 250W to 500W range. Anything less might feel a bit weedy on hills, while anything more powerful could be overkill (and possibly illegal depending on your local laws).

UK regulations limit e-bikes to 25 kmh (15.5 mph), so don’t waste money on motors claiming ridiculous speeds if you’re planning to ride legally on public roads.

Motors labelled “geared” give you better hill-climbing ability and efficiency, while “direct drive” motors are quieter but heavier. For most trike conversions, a geared hub motor offers the best balance of weight and performance.

Sorting Through Batteries

Your battery choice will determine how far your electric trike can take you before it’s time for a recharge. Lithium-ion batteries are the gold standard these days – they’re lighter and last longer than older lead-acid types.

Battery capacity is measured in watt-hours (Wh), but you’ll often see it expressed as voltage (V) and amp-hours (Ah). A typical setup might be 36V and 10Ah, giving you 360Wh total. As a rough guide:

Small battery (200-300Wh): 15-25 miles range
Medium battery (300-500Wh): 25-40 miles range
Large battery (500Wh+): 40+ miles range

Remember that your actual range depends on your weight, how much you pedal, terrain, and even the weather. Cold days will shrink your range quite a bit!

The battery is likely to be the priciest part of your conversion, so don’t skimp here. A decent battery will set you back £200-400, but it’s worth every penny for reliability and longevity.

Understanding Motor Controllers

The motor controller is like the brain of your electric system – it manages power delivery from your battery to your motor. Think of it as the middleman that translates your throttle inputs into actual speed.

Most conversion kits come with a controller matched to the motor, but it’s worth understanding what you’re getting. Look for controllers that offer:

Pedal assistance levels: Multiple power levels let you choose how much help you want
Current limiting: Prevents damage to your motor and battery
Low-voltage cutoff: Protects your battery from being drained too far

For a trike conversion, you’ll want a controller that can handle at least 15-20 amps of current. This ensures you have enough power for hills and carrying loads (one of the main reasons to have a trike in the first place!).

Controllers can be a bit intimidating with all their wires, but most kits colour-code everything and provide plug-and-play connections. No need to be a sparky to sort this bit out!

Getting a Grip on the Throttle System

Your throttle is how you’ll control your newfound electric power. There are two main types to consider:

Thumb throttles are the most common and easiest to use. They fit next to your grip and you press them with your thumb – dead simple! These are brilliant for trikes where you might need to quickly adjust your speed.

Twist throttles work like a motorcycle throttle where you twist the grip to apply power. Some riders find these more intuitive, but they can be trickier to control precisely.

For a trike conversion, I’d recommend a thumb throttle as it allows you to keep a solid grip on both handlebars, which is important for stability when cornering on three wheels.

Many kits also include a display that shows your speed (in mph or kmh), battery level, and distance travelled. While not strictly necessary, these displays are dead useful for managing your battery range and keeping an eye on how much juice you’ve got left before you’re left pedalling a rather heavy trike home!

Mechanical Modifications Required

Converting your trike to electric power does require some hands-on modifications to the frame and components. You’ll need to make space for new parts while ensuring everything stays balanced and safe. Let’s look at the key changes you’ll need to make to your trusty three-wheeler.

Fitting the Hub Motor to Your Trike

The hub motor is the heart of your conversion, and fitting it properly is crucial. Most conversion kits come with a motor built into a wheel that replaces one of your existing wheels—typically the rear one.

For a tricycle, you’ll need to decide which of the rear wheels gets the motor. The simplest approach is to replace just one of the rear wheels with the powered hub. You’ll need to:

Remove the original wheel by loosening the axle nuts
Disconnect any brake components attached to that wheel
Measure the dropout width (usually 135mm for trikes)
Ensure your new motor wheel matches this width

The tricky bit with trikes is maintaining proper alignment. Your motor wheel must be perfectly parallel to the other wheels, or you’ll get dodgy handling and premature tyre wear. Consider adding washers if needed to get the spacing bang on.

Battery Mounting Solutions

Finding a secure spot for your battery is one of the bigger challenges with trike conversions. Unlike a standard bike, you can’t always use the downtube.

Popular mounting locations:

Under the seat (if you have a recumbent trike)
On a rear rack or basket
In a frame bag between the rear wheels
Custom bracket attached to the main frame

Whatever location you choose, make sure:

The battery is protected from water and debris
Weight is distributed evenly to maintain stability
It doesn’t interfere with your pedalling motion
You can remove it easily for charging

A proper mounting bracket with rubber vibration dampeners will help protect your battery from the constant jiggling about on the road. Don’t be tempted to just bung it in a basket with a bungee cord—that’s asking for trouble!

Wiring: A Tidy Approach

A neat wiring job makes your trike look professional and prevents future headaches. Messy wires can catch on moving parts or get damaged.

Start by planning your route. Map out where each component will sit and how the wires will connect them. For a trike, you’ll typically need:

Motor to controller connection
Battery to controller connection
Throttle/display to controller connection

Use cable ties or frame clips to secure wires along the frame. Keep them away from moving parts like chains, brakes and wheels. Consider using split loom tubing to bundle wires together and provide extra protection.

For tricycles, you’ll need longer wiring runs than standard bikes due to the wider rear end. Most kits include standard-length cables that might need extending. Don’t cut corners here—proper waterproof connectors are worth the investment rather than just twisting wires together and hoping for the best!

The Installation Process Step by Step

Converting your trusty trike to electric power involves a few key stages that aren’t as complicated as they might seem. With the right kit and a bit of patience, you’ll be zooming along with electric assistance before you know it.

Preparation: Tools and Workspace Sorted

First things first, let’s get everything sorted. You’ll need a decent set of Allen keys, spanners (especially 15mm and 18mm for wheel nuts), wire cutters, electrical tape, zip ties, and a good multimeter. A bike stand is brilliant if you’ve got one, but flipping your trike upside down works too if you’re careful.

Make sure you’ve got a clean, dry workspace with decent lighting. Your kitchen table might seem tempting, but your partner won’t thank you for the grease stains! A garage or garden shed is perfect.

Before you start, give your manual a proper read-through. Different kits have different quirks, and it’s worth knowing what you’re getting into.

Lastly, charge any tools that need it and lay everything out so you can see what you’ve got. Being organised now saves a right headache later!

Installing the Hub Motor

The hub motor is the heart of your conversion, replacing your existing rear wheel. Start by removing your original wheel – undo the nuts or quick release, and disconnect the brake if it’s attached to the wheel.

Take off your existing freewheel or cassette using a chain whip and removal tool. You’ll need to transfer your tyre and inner tube to the new wheel, so carefully remove these too. Use tyre levers if needed, but be gentle to avoid punctures.

When fitting the tyre to your new motor wheel, check the rotation direction arrows match the forward direction. Pop the inner tube in, making sure it’s not twisted, and inflate it just enough to give it shape.

Slot your new motorised wheel into the dropouts, making sure the axle sits properly. Don’t fully tighten the nuts yet – you’ll want to check the chain alignment first to avoid a wonky setup.

Fixing the Battery in Place

Your battery is the powerhouse of your new electric trike, so it needs to be secure but accessible. Most kits come with a frame-mounted battery that attaches to your downtube or rear rack.

For a trike, the rear rack is often your best bet. Make sure it’s rated for the weight of your battery (typically 3-5kg). Mark your mounting points carefully before drilling any holes – measure twice, drill once as they say!

Attach the battery mount using the bolts provided, adding a bit of thread-lock to prevent them working loose. The battery itself should click into place securely.

Give it a good wiggle to check it’s properly attached. If there’s any movement, sort it now before it becomes a problem on the road. The last thing you want is your expensive battery taking a tumble mid-ride!

Wiring It All Up

Now for the slightly fiddly bit – connecting everything together. Your kit should include a wiring diagram, but generally, you’ll need to connect:

The motor to the controller
The battery to the controller
The throttle/pedal sensor to the controller
The display unit to the controller

Use the connectors provided – they should only fit together one way, so it’s hard to go wrong. Tuck any excess wiring away neatly using zip ties to avoid it catching in your chain or wheels.

Don’t cut any wires shorter until you’re absolutely certain everything works! It’s much easier to tidy up excess wire than to splice in extensions later.

The controller box is best mounted somewhere protected from water and impacts. Under the seat or in a frame bag works well for most trikes.

Programming the Motor Controller

With everything connected, it’s time to set up your controller. Most kits come with a display unit that acts as your control panel and information centre.

Power everything up and follow the user manual for your specific controller. You’ll typically need to set:

Maximum speed limit (legal limit is 15.5mph in the UK)
Wheel size (important for accurate speed readings)
Pedal assist levels (how much help you get when pedalling)
Battery type (to ensure accurate charge display)

Take your time with this bit – getting these settings right affects how your trike performs and how long your battery lasts. If your display shows error codes, check the manual for troubleshooting.

Test everything while the trike is on a stand first. Check that the motor engages properly with the throttle or pedal assist, and that the brakes cut the power when applied.

Give all your connections a final check before your first proper ride. And remember to keep that user manual handy – you might need to refer back to it for fine-tuning!

Safety Checks and Test Rides

Before zooming off on your newly electrified trike, you’ll need to ensure everything’s working properly and safely. Careful testing will save you headaches (and possibly bruises) down the road.

Conducting a Thorough Safety Inspection

Right, first things first—let’s check this bad boy over properly before you go anywhere. Start with the electrics: make sure all connections are tight and properly insulated. No exposed wires allowed, love! Check that your battery is securely mounted and can’t shift about when you’re riding.

Give your brakes a proper inspection too—they’ll need to handle higher speeds now. Electric trikes can reach 15-20 mph (24-32 kmh) depending on the motor, so your stopping power needs to be bang on.

Check your tyre pressure and make sure all bolts are tight, especially:

Motor mounting bolts
Controller fixings
Battery bracket screws
Brake callipers

Don’t forget to test your lights and horn too if you’ve fitted them. Safety first!

Embarking on the Maiden Voyage

Time for the exciting bit! For your first test ride, find a quiet, flat area away from traffic and pedestrians—an empty car park is perfect. Start with the lowest power setting if your controller offers different levels.

Begin by testing your brakes at walking pace before you try any serious speed. Get a feel for how the motor engages—is it smooth or jerky? Your trike might reach 15 mph (24 kmh) easily now, but don’t push for top speed straightaway.

Pay attention to:

Handling: Does it pull to one side?
Braking distance: Allow extra stopping distance at higher speeds
Battery performance: Note how quickly the charge drops
Noise levels: Any unusual sounds need investigating

Gradually increase your speed and distance as you gain confidence. Don’t be disheartened if things need tweaking—it’s all part of the process, innit?

Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Converting your trike to electric gives you brilliant freedom, but like any bit of kit, it needs regular care to keep running smoothly. Proper maintenance will save you headaches and extend the life of your components.

Keeping Your Electric Trike in Tip-Top Condition

The key to a happy electric trike is regular checks—don’t wait until something’s gone wonky! Give your battery a proper charge cycle at least once a month, even in winter when you might not be riding as much. This keeps the cells happy and extends battery capacity.

Check your connections monthly. Rattling about on rough roads can loosen things, so make sure everything’s snug (but not overtightened). A bit of dielectric grease on electrical connections keeps moisture out—dead useful in our lovely British weather!

Your hub motor needs attention too. Listen for any unusual sounds—grinding or clicking might mean something’s not quite right. Keep the motor clean but never blast it with a pressure washer. A damp cloth will do.

Quick Monthly Checklist:

Battery charge level and connections
Controller housing (check for water ingress)
Motor mounting bolts
Wiring harness condition

Dealing with Common Electric Conversion Issues

When things go pear-shaped, don’t panic! Most issues with converted trikes are surprisingly simple to sort. If your trike won’t power up, first check the obvious—is the battery charged and properly connected? Next, examine the motor controller for any error lights or codes.

Range anxiety? If your battery’s not lasting as long, it might be time to adjust your riding style. Using lower assist levels on flat bits and saving the grunt for hills can help. Or your battery might be showing its age—they typically need replacing after 500-1,000 charge cycles.

Hub motors are brilliant but can occasionally develop issues. A motor that’s hot to touch after a short ride might indicate a problem with the controller sending too much power.

Troubleshooting Top Tips:

No power? Check the kill switch and battery connections first
Motor cutting out? Could be a loose wire or overheating protection
Strange noises? Tighten all mounting hardware
Controller acting up? Try a full system reset (battery disconnect for 5 minutes)

Remember, most bike shops are still catching up on electric knowledge, so finding someone who understands converted trikes can be a bit of a faff. Join online forums for brilliant advice from fellow DIYers!

Frequently Asked Questions

Converting your trike to electric power can raise loads of questions. Here are the most common ones I get asked, with straightforward answers to help you electrify your three-wheeler without the faff.

What’s the scoop on fitting an electric motor to my adult trike?

Fitting an electric motor to your adult trike is fairly straightforward if you choose the right kit. Most people opt for a front hub motor as they’re easier to install than mid-drive systems.

You’ll need to replace your front wheel with a motorised one that matches your fork width. Adult trikes typically have 100mm front forks, so make sure your kit is compatible.

The installation usually takes 2-3 hours even if you’re a beginner with basic tools. No welding or frame modifications required for most conversion kits!

Can you walk me through choosing a top-notch electric conversion kit for my three-wheeler?

Look for kits specifically designed for trikes or that mention trike compatibility. Worksman actually uses ebikekit for their trike conversions, which is a good endorsement.

Power-wise, 250W is the legal limit in the UK, but 500W kits are widely available and provide more oomph if you’re a larger rider or tackling hills. Just be aware of the legal implications.

Consider hub motors rather than mid-drive for trikes. They’re simpler to install and usually more affordable, with prices starting around £200 for basic kits.

I’m a wee bit curious, how tricky is it to install a battery on my trike by myself?

Installing the battery isn’t difficult at all! Most conversion kits come with a battery mount that attaches to your frame using bottle cage mounts or straps.

For trikes, you’ve got the advantage of more space for battery placement. The rear basket or cargo area is brilliant for larger batteries, giving you extra range without affecting handling.

Just make sure all cables are properly secured with zip ties to prevent them catching in your wheels or drivetrain. Trust me on this one – loose cables can be a right pain!

Got any clever tips for picking the best battery for my DIY electric trike conversion?

Go for lithium batteries rather than lead-acid – they’re lighter, last longer, and won’t let you down as quickly. A 36V or 48V system with at least 10Ah capacity gives a decent balance of power and range.

Consider where you’ll mount it on your trike. The good news is trikes have more places to pop a battery than regular bikes – rear racks, baskets, or under the seat all work brilliantly.

Budget for a quality battery – it’s not worth skimping here! Cheap batteries can be dangerous and unreliable. Expect to spend £150-300 for a decent lithium pack with proper protection circuits.

Is doing the electric shuffle with my trike legal, or will it have the fuzz knocking on my door?

In the UK, electric bikes (including trikes) are legal on roads without registration as long as the motor is no more than 250W and only provides assistance up to 15.5mph (25km/h).

Your trike must still have functional pedals – it can’t be throttle-only unless registered as a moped. Many kits come with both pedal assist and throttle options, but legally you should disable the throttle-only function.

If you’re installing a more powerful motor (like 500W), be aware you’re technically creating a vehicle that should be registered, taxed and insured. Many people still use them without issues, but it’s not strictly legal.

Alright, love, let’s have a proper chat—what kind of budget am I looking at to electrify my manual trike?

A basic but decent conversion will set you back about £350-500 all in. This includes a front hub motor kit with controller and a modest battery that’ll give you around 15-20 miles range.

For something more premium with a larger battery, better controller and display unit, budget £600-800. The extra investment gets you more range, reliability and features like different assist levels.

If you’re handy with DIY, you can save a bit by buying components separately. Some people have managed conversions for as little as £200 using more basic components, but I’d recommend spending a bit more for peace of mind.